Dan Jenkins was a phenomenal sportswriter and novelist who in 1981 invented a singer/songwriter/barmaid from Ft. Worth named Juanita Hutchins. The title of her fictional hit song was the title of Jenkins’s second most famous work of fiction, Baja Oklahoma.
It, like Jenkins’ more famous novel Semi-Tough, was turned into a Hollywood movie. Burt Reynolds and Kris Kristopherson helped make Semi-Tough a box-office success, but Lesley Anne-Warren, Peter Coyote and Baja Oklahoma never had a chance — even with the help of the legendary Willie Nelson and a neophyte Julia Roberts.
No one in Oklahoma embraced it. Probably because of the fake diddy’s refrain:
It's Baja Oklahoma
But it's Texas in your soul
The story was set in the 1950s, the book came out in ‘81, the movie bombed in 1988, and the term Baja Oklahoma was never heard from again … that is until El Sabor de la Baja opened in the former Eggroll Queen space in February of 2022.
El Sabor de la Baja comes to the 405 diningscape by way of Baja California. More specifically, Chula Vista, California. Most might gloss right over that, but it happens to be the city between San Diego and San Ysidro where I spent the first eight years of my life.
I finally took my first trip to El Sabor de la Baja after an aborted attempt last week. Good thing. That dinner involved a lot of serious conversation that would’ve been swept under a wave of live Mariachi music, karaoke videos turned up to 11, and a volume of seafood spread across the table.
El Sabor de la Baja isn’t so much a Mexican restaurant as a restaurant that is Mexican in every respect – ownership, service, ambience, and flavors. And it’s fun. More fun than diners are used to experiencing. Maybe too much for some. If the idea of a guitar player strumming over your tortilla stack is worrisome, maybe opt for Abel’s or Birrieria Diaz. But if you are down to get loud and feast on food dialed up high on the heat index, this is your place and these are your people.
Response has been rabid enough to allow the restaurant to expand. Now occupying two spots, El Sabor de la Baja won’t be for everyone but it is for anyone seeking a truly authentic Mexican dining experience.
My buddy Nathan Poppe joined me for birria and an entire Bubba Gump Shrimp Company served on one glorious platter with two kinds of tortillas. Heaven.
And despite its reputation as a seafood restaurant, Sabor de la Baja’s birria game is expert. Quesabirria tacos have quickly captured the hearts of gringos far and wide, but I don’t need a glob of cheese fried into beef, goat or lamb that’s already been braised in red chile. Just a tortilla, a few fresh condiments and a napkin will do, thanks, and that’s what Sabor de la Mar delivered.
The A La Playa platter we ordered turned out to be a comedic amount of shellfish. A pile of prawns delivered in the manner of “Too Much Tuna.” A party of 10 might have a shot. All the shrimp was tasty, but the absolutely spectacular guacamole in the center told me all I needed to know about this restaurant. Wow.
Sabor de la Baja takes up two spaces. The entrance opens into the bar, which is loud and rowdy as you like on the weekends. The main dining room includes four and six tops ideal for communal dining and families. The more mouths you have to feed the better.
I’ve only been once but have now moved Sabor de la Baja to the top of my list of restaurants up for review. Sabor de la Baja is just west of Sedalia’s Oysters and Seafood on the stretch of NW 10th Street across from the State Fairgrounds. Those two have made that the 405 diningscape’s de facto seafood destination. Don’t forget that when visiting the fair next month.
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