Counting down April's top bites
Dining news has been dense. Hello to new ownership for Nonesuch and farewells to The Drum Room and Nic’s Place have pushed April’s highlights to this late date.
Might recall some dispatches from New Mexico, but my dining stops from that trip are reserved for special content later this month. That trip crossed with my Pizzabout partner Rob Crissinger’s travel plans, which means we are going to double-up on our Pizzabout campaign next month. Crossing travel plans aside, both Rob and I have continued to eat pizza. Rob dropped by Flip’s for a pie while the pizza I ate is on the list below.
That pizza comes from one of two places never represented in my monthly dining reports. The other comes from the first item on the list.
Without further ado, let’s go …
Pupusas, Sabor Guanaco
This Salvadoran restaurant and bakery was definitely the find of the month. Pupusas are at the heart of the menu. The national dish of El Salvador is made to order six days a week in Norman, and the results are brilliant. We tried the Revuelta (queso, fried pork and frijoles) and another with loroco and queso. We also had a bean and queso pupusa made from rice masa. All spectacular, as were the black beans and fluffy made-to-order corn tortillas.
Mussels/Sedalia’s Oyster & Seafood
Big Bite Tulsa was last month, and the 405 diningscape was well-represented by Sedalia’s, Stock & Bond and Ma Der Lao Kitchen, but the mussels served in a tin by chef Zack Walters stole the show. Great shabby-chic presentation, but these mussels which he said came from shallow waters were served in a delicate sauce that showcased the quality of the seafood. NomNomNomNom
Beefs/Ma Der Lao Kitchen
Got to enjoy two very different meals at Ma Der last month. One with bestselling author Kevin Kwan, and the other for Cowboys and Laoboys 2. Lunch with Kwan inspired chef/owner Jeff Chanchaleune to present some Wagyu beef I won’t soon forget. Cowboys and Laoboys turned Hill Country-style brisket into the stage for a dance between South American and southeast Asian sensibilities.
Cabbage “salad”/Tiger-Style
Chef Caleb Stangroom cracked the Top 10 with his first attempt at this dish last month, but the new iteration served at The Crown was even better. Those who want to track it down will have to wait until June for the next pop-up.
Pot Roast/Krell’s Delicatessen
Chef Jonathan Krell opened his namesake deli about a year ago, and much has evolved. Krell now offers nightly entrees. I went to check them out, and found the pot roast, served with ultra-creamy horseradish-mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables, and a highly soppable red wine sauce, was the runaway winner.
Tabouli/Lebanese Food Festival & Market at Our Lady of Lebanon Church
After visiting this festival in Norman, I feel like I understand why my Lebanese friends debate parsley levels in the tabouli with such ferocity. This was perfect. Also learned tabouli mixed with tahini is a thing. A good thing.
Garlic-Fried Rice/Riviere Modern Banh Mi
Since it opened in 2019, Riviere has evolved into one of the freshest spots for Vietnamese food. The menu offers a good mix of classics with some whimsical plays on banh mi, but the noodle and rice bowls have emerged in recent years. With a little pork, the garlic rice was on point and the bowl went back clean!
Quiche Florentine, La Baguette
A few months back, quiche from La Baguette in Norman made the list, but this time it comes from the Buthion brothers’ location on North May. Instead of a slice, chef Alain sends out whole mini quiches. So good! In French
Road snacks/Healthy Cravings
My trip to New Mexico was greatly enhanced by the presence of Healthy Cravings snacks. Big fan of the Salty Dog and Pepper Cashews but don’t fear the Scorpion Sweat – too much.
Pizza/Andolini’s Pizzeria (Tulsa)
When hanging out at a food festival all evening doesn’t quite satiate you, only late-night slices will do. Happened to be staying a hop and a skip from Andolini’s last month after hanging out at Big Bite. The results weren’t gustatory nirvana but certainly clutch.
Let me know in the comments if you’ve come across any of these dishes and what you thought.