Dado's Pizza turns to science for New York State of pie

Pizza news from the sublime to the ridiculous plus celebrations at Nunu's and Ganache celebrate

There is no shortage of local pizza claiming to be New York-style, but few deliver. Sure, there a bunch of places that will sell you a slice, a wide slice. A slice big enough you can fold it. But the fold is where most would-be NY-style slices go to die.

If the slice folds like a cheap suit, fuhgetaboutit. No self-respecting New York-style pizza loses its spine from a little folding. Instead, it will spread its shoulders and endure. Endure until nothing is left but the tattered remains of oven-scarred crust lying in smears of grease left by the last vestiges of crumbled sausage.

On Thursday, I made my first trip to Dado’s Pizza, and it’s one I won’t soon fuhgetaboutit.

Brought to the 405 diningscape by Killer Squid restaurant group (Café 7, Old School Bagel, The Hamilton Supperette and Lounge) in November, the secret sauce behind Dado’s is in the water. The original Dado’s was born in Harlem, and the owner is friends with Killer Squid partner Chris Kana from their days Oklahoma State University.

When Killer Squid decided to open a Dado’s in the 405 diningscape, the team decided they couldn’t replicate the dough without New York City water. A filtration system was installed and through the power of osmosis (in reverse), New York City water is the foundation for every Dado’s pizza crust.

On first review, and with the help of Della Terra Pasta chef Chris Becker, I can report the results are spectacular. This was only a first trip, but the pepperoni quickly moved to the top of my list. The cheese is still right in behind Moni’s, but by the look of everything Dado’s is going to be high on the list of top local pizzas I am working on for April.

Dado’s takes over the former Camilya’s Mediterranean space, which anyone who ever visited will remember for its awkward dining room. The Killer Squid team has rearranged the layout to better effect, but this will never be a place known for its guests hanging out for long, leisurely afternoons. A few bistro tables at the front are split by whatever line forms at the counter, but ample counter dining and a few more tables are located in the back of the space. There is also covered dining space out front and in an adjacent courtyard. Perhaps with warmer weather, the outdoor seating will suffice for those looking to lounge.

Needless to say, Dado’s is armed and ready for take-out. Didn’t get to try anything besides pizza on visit No. 1, but look forward to checking out the wings, garlic knots and a meat pie next time. Check out the full menu here.

The pizza at Dado’s is part of an ongoing pizza tour, but it immediately brought to mind a couple of recent visits.

Back in January, I visited Bill Bonadio at his new place, Chef Dio’s Kitchen. Bill founded Papa Dio’s Italian Restaurant will his dad Bill Sr. back in the 1970s, and sold the business to his sister Candace Gideo in 2019. He still helps out at Papa Dio’s, but his focus is now on the place where he offers private parties, cooking classes and venue rental.

The city is brimming with private venues these days, but none of them share space with a classic car operation. Bill cooks for dough, but works on cars for show. Several shows, actually. He’s been featured on “Pink Slips” and several other car-centric shows, and does custom work in the garage attached to his kitchen.

During that visit, pizza was on the menu, and it was fantastic. Full details are available on the website.

The other pizzacentric visit that struck me recently was on the telephone. Back in November, the last story I wrote for The Oklahoman was about the tragic accident chef Rachel Foster suffered riding her scooter near home and the catastrophic brain injury she incurred.

When I wrote a few weeks ago about the launch of this pizza tour, I mentioned Moni’s was my benchmark for cheese pizza. That brought to mind Rachel, and prompted a text to her husband and business partner, John.

Instead of a text back, I got a call. And the next thing I knew, I heard Rachel’s voice.  They were out on a three-mile hike as part of her ongoing physical therapy in Atlanta. John’s voice was ebullient, but his was not the voice that brought tears to my eyes.

When I heard Rachel say, “Hi, Dave!” I couldn’t believe my ears. Just three months removed from what could’ve been a fatal accident, Rachel was taking steps toward an ongoing miracle. So, yeah, I did have to wipe the tears from my eyes. Congratulations to John and Rachel, here’s to her continued speedy recovery.

Happy Birthdaze!

Couple local eateries are celebrating anniversaries right now.

Nunu’s Mediterranean Café and Market is celebrating 15 years this month with specials like Ruz Bid Feen (traditional chicken and rice with garbanzo beans and caramelized onions) and Chocolate Tiara Cake. There will also be giveaways in the store. Congrats to Clayton Farhood and Stephen Bradley on a decade and a half, now pass the hashwa!

On Sunday, Ganache Patisserie will host a five-year anniversary party at the store. Owners Laura Szyld and her husband Matt Ruggi brought world-class candies, confections and pastries to Chisholm Creek half a decade ago, followed by the divine Domenico Coffee & Dessert Bar in 2020.

Ganache also serves sandwiches, quiche, and salads to buttress its swoon-worthy croissants, confections, and cakes.

On Sunday, Laura promises giveaways and specials throughout the day.

One Last Slice

We covered some sublime pizza news, now for some ridiculous: Brent Swadley is going into the pizza business.

That’s right, the carnival barker/restaurateur announced earlier this week that he would bring 17 new units of Mr. Gatti’s Pizza to Oklahoma, Arkansas and Missouri over the next six years.

“I grew up with Mr. Gatti’s and it’s an honor to now join the MGP family,” Swadley told a nameless public relations flak who submitted the information to the general public via PRNewswire. “Mr. Gatti’s has an incredible leadership team dedicated to restoring and growing the brand with a continued focus on using high-quality ingredients and providing exceptional service in a food-first, family-centric atmosphere.”

Between now and the first Mr. Gatti’s opening, Swadley will have to explain to the attorney general about how he colluded with members of disgraced members of the Stitt administration to acquire operating rights to state-owned restaurants at eight state parks. He’ll have to explain how either he or someone in the Stitt administration determined it was lawful for him to not only act as the state’s de facto general contractor at the parks that have restaurant spaces but to do so without bidding out the work.

Former Oklahoma Tourism and Recreation director Jerry Winchester and his deputy Gino DeMarco, who also bought and developed property near Lake Murray before the public was aware the state was installing a new marina nearby, have both left the department. Neither of them have explained where they got the notion.

I’d love to be there when they do explain because I’ve read the statute they claim paved the way and it does nothing of the sort.

Until then, Swadley, who has eight barbecue joints and an emergency response business, will try to be the first operator in three tries to make Mr. Gatti’s succeed in Oklahoma.

Guess if you’re rolling the dice, you might as well go big.