December dining slayed without sled
JK took the lead on last month's cookie-pouch growth project
The Happy New Yearing ain’t over yet, y’all, but first we gotta get to the December Dining Report. How could I compile a list of the best things I ate in 2023 without first determining the best 10 things I ate in December of 2023?
Good food is the key to good cheer during the holiday season, so I had plenty to choose from dining around the 405 last month. I never eat out on New Year’s Eve, but the Friday falling a couple of days before was ideal for a return to JK by Chef King and that dreamy Miso Eggplant. My third visit to the leafy, purple-haze hewn restaurant across from the Oklahoma City National Memorial was my favorite thus far. And why not when seated across from someone, who paired perfectly with the pastel environs, sipping a Saigon at Sunset!?!
But I’m getting ahead of my skis. The month of December was filled with Harvest Loaf, Reese’s Christmas Trees, eggnog (YES, eggnog!), and whole lot of other sugar-frosted or cream-frosted or chocolate-frosted stuff between meals inflating my cookie-pouch beyond acceptable breadth.
That didn’t keep me and my cookie pouch from diving into a Birdie’s by Chef Kevin Lee pop-up before the remodeling began. Kevin told me on Wednesday he expects to open in two weeks, but plans to host some ticketed popups ahead of that. Food Dood Feeders will have an exclusive opportunity to attend those pop-ups before the tickets go public. I also got to sample some salmon with kimchi butter and sweet potato puree that I can’t imagine won’t make the January Top 10.
Then came an early visit to Classen Grill, which is now reopened, a trip to Yukon for Krell’s East Coast Style Delicastessan, and two Thursday trips to Ma Der Lao Kitchen for Khao Soi that sparked a first-ever dual entry on the Top 10. That’s right, among the best 10 things I ate last month was a compare-contrast experiment between local Khao Sois.
That’s enough explanation. On to the Top 10 for December (so I can finally get my Top 10 for 2023 finished).
1. Eggplant Miso/JK by Chef King
The trip to JK was intended to confirm whether this was among the best dishes I had in 2023. It is … but don’t sleep on the Crispy Rice Tuna! NomNomNomNom
2. Wagyu Strip/Birdie’s by Chef Kevin Lee (pop-up)
Chef Kevin tested dishes bound for the new menu at his first pop-up. That night, the Wagyu Strip was perfection. Sigh.
3. Tamales/The Tamale King
Felix Cornejo and his family made a lot of holidays brighter last December, including me and mine. The bean, cheese and jalapeno are the best vegetarian tamales I’ve ever had, but the Spicy Pork are my absolute favorite. Just add crema or guacamole – or nothing. Ole!
4. CGs and CGPs/Classen Grill
Happy Plate Concepts added the iconic breakfast café at the mouth of Northwest Expressway and NW 50th? Street last month, it’s second legacy-brand resuscitation in the past couple of years. Happy Plate specializes in breakfast with Sunnyside Diner and Grill on the Hill, but none of them have Classen Grill Potatoes or the glorious cheese grits like these. Home, sweet home
5. Tofu Stew/Bulgogi Korean Restaurant
As he was preparing for the aforementioned pop-up, chef Kevin Lee met me at Bulgogi Korean Restaurant in Edmond for some down-home inspiration. Korean food is beefiest enough for Texans, but the best thing we had that day was the Tofu Stew. I know, I know, but once you’re done gagging pay attention: This tofu was so silky it virtually vanished the second it hit the palate and the broth was a direct flame to the soul. MMMmmmmmmmmmmmm…
6. Philly Cheesesteak/Krell’s East Coast Style Delicatessen
Once again, confirming some dishes for the 2023 top 10 and I happened into a Philly Cheesesteak. Chef/owner Jonathan Krell is a Philadelphia-native, so when he says go with the premium white American cheese over the Whiz, you do it. As usual, he was right. NomNomNom
7. Wheat Rolls/Twisted Tree Baking Co.
For the holidays, Twisted Tree Baking Company made dinner rolls out of their outlandishly delicious wheat bread. They were take and bake and they were spectacular. Did sub sesame seeds as the topping. Did I eat the whole tray? Does it count if it’s over a 12-hour period? Sorry; not sorry.
8. Dueling Khao Soi’s/Ma Der Lao Kitchen & Kitchen 23 Thai & Pho
It’s well known I like the Khao Soi at Ma Der Lao Kitchen. It’s the best I’ve ever had, but I really haven’t had that many. Before last month, the only non-Ma der Khao Soi I’ve eaten in years came from Thai Delight near Campus Corner in Norman. While Jeff’s broth is infused with a spicy pork blend for its identity Thai Delight leaned on massaman curry. Last month, I had Khao Soi at Kitchen 21 Thai & Pho. Like Thai Delight, Kitchen 21 rooted its version in Massaman. Love me some Massaman, but the spicy Lao version wins by miles. Come thru!
9. Chicken Pot Pie/Redrock Canyon Grill
Sunday brunch was highlighted by an exemplary interpretation of the American classic, including a flaky crust so good we could’ve stripped it clean off and walked away happy and satiated. NomNomNom
10. Bee Smash Knee Cap/Ludivine
When Ludivine closed at the end of the year, it closed the chapter on a restaurant that played a direct role in the culinary renaissance this city has experienced over the past 15 years. Chef/partner Russ Johnson invited three of his past bar managers do a bar takeover before Christmas. Pioneering bartenders Kyle Fleischfresser, Colby Poulin and Chris Barrett put on a helluva show to send Ludivine into history, including bringing back the legendary Bee Smash Knee Cap, a blend of gin, lemon, honey and lavender. Cheers!