For amber waves of grain, Country Bird Bakery
Beard semifinalist baking up a (perfect) storm in Tulsa
There is bread, and there is bread. Then there is Cat Cox’s bread. The proof in her proofing skills is in her status as semifinalist for the James Beard Award for Outstanding Baker. Her Tulsa-based Country Bird Bakery has earned national acclaim, including recognition by The New York Times as one of the top 22 bakeries in the United States.
While publications like The New York Times are highly respected, their limited samples or connections within the industry run astray, but in the case of Cat Cox and Country Bird Bakery they got it right.
Cat Cox’s mastery of sourdough is evident in every bite at Country Bird Bakery. Her house-made starter imparts a tangy depth that defines her pastries, distinguishing them from the mass-produced, one-note baking found elsewhere. The moment you step inside, the aroma of fresh bread envelops you — an intoxicating prelude to the experience ahead.
Cox’s commitment to quality extends beyond fermentation. Some of her flour is milled in house, ensuring unmatched freshness and complexity in every loaf. For anything she cannot mill in-house, she relies on stone-milled flour from Chisholm Trail Milling in Enid and Barton Springs Mill outside of Austin. Her dedication to locality doesn’t stop there — she sources butter, nuts, chocolate, and eggs from Oklahoma vendors, crafting baked goods that are pure, unadulterated reflections of the Southwest. On a chilly Saturday morning, it's time to put Country Bird Bakery to the test, evaluating it against the nation’s best. Let’s eat.
Blood Orange Yuzu Supreme
A pastry that exemplifies balance and technique. The tart floral citrus of yuzu heightens the delicate sweetness of blood orange, while the crisp, golden laminated dough provides the perfect textural contrast. It’s an ambitious creation executed with precision.
The Lion’s Mane & Black Trumpet Mushroom Pot Pie
The crust is perfectly flaky, providing a buttery, structured contrast to the rich, herbaceous filling. The combination of lion’s mane and black trumpet mushrooms is well-judged, enhancing the dish’s depth rather than overpowering it.
Chocolate Babka
The tangy sourdough base sets it apart, lending complexity to the layers of dark, velvety chocolate. It’s indulgent without being overly sweet, a testament to her restraint and understanding of balance. A truly piece de resistance loaf of pure perfection.
Signature City Loaf
The loaf is a masterclass in simplicity. A crisp, golden crust gives way to a slightly chewy, impeccably baked interior. The bright sour notes lead into a yeasty mid-palate, finishing with deep, earthy grain. It’s a loaf that speaks to technique, time, and patience—the foundation of great baking.
S’mores Twice-Baked Croissant (“S’morissant”)
A playful yet sophisticated take on nostalgia. While Dominique Ansel popularized the Cronut and Laminated introduced the Crookie, Cox has redefined the genre. Her sourdough croissant, layered with locally sourced chocolate and a tangy sourdough cookie, is crowned with a perfectly toasted marshmallow. It’s a textural marvel, combining crisp, gooey, and flaky in a single bite.
The Pumpkin Muhammara Labneh Farmer’s Danish
The tangy Labneh transitions into salty, slightly sweet red pepper notes, with nutty pumpkin lingering on the finish. The laminated dough serves as a delicate counterbalance, preventing the bold flavors from overwhelming. It’s a complex, well-integrated pastry that showcases Cox’s ability to refine strong flavors into a cohesive whole.
Final Thoughts
Baking is an art, and Cat Cox is the Picasso of baking. Each bite of her bread and pastries is a journey through the southwest region, capturing the essence of local ingredients and craftsmanship. Cat Cox doesn’t just bake; she creates culinary masterpieces that rank among the finest in the United States.
When comparing Cat to her peers, it’s essential that the person doing the critique has experienced the work of those peers. I have tasted baked goods from the nation’s elite, and Cat Cox stands proudly among them. Her true peers are legends like Nancy Silverton, Dominique Ansel, Joanne Chang, and Chad Robertson. This is the caliber of baker we should be comparing her to — not current James Beard semifinalists, but past winners.
In Cat’s hands, Oklahoma’s culinary reputation is being elevated as she kneads and folds the essence of the state into the national spotlight. She isn’t just baking bread — she’s shaping the future of a region.
Final score: 60/60
Note about the ratings: Scores are out of 60 with a standard deviations of +/- 10 points.
56-60: pièce de résistance
50-55: Excellent
40-50: Above Average
20-40: Average
11-20: Below Average
0-10: Low
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