Has Oklahoma's culinary scene reached a peak?
Nothing sudden about efforts to make the Sooner state a delicious place to visit
It’s fair to say local fare is putting a target on Oklahoma’s collective back. The best kind of target. The kind that means folks are not only doing something right, but have been for a long time.
Chef Jeff Chanchaleune was named a finalist for Best Chef Southwest by the James Beard Foundation for the second straight year on Wednesday, but clear and present signs Oklahoma has emerged as a dining destination go beyond that.
For instance, 30 culinary creatives will gather at Tulsa’s Gateway Event Center for the return of T-Town’s first-ever food festival, Big Bite 2024, on April 20th. Culinary talent from Et al., Elote, Mr. Kim’s, Antoinette Bakery, and Natv will gather at the Gateway Event Center to show off, but they’ll be joined by some Oklahoma City talent.
The Jones Assembly, Stock & Bond and Sedalia’s will join the fun, which starts at 1 p.m. for those holding VIP tickets and 5 p.m. for general admission. The VIP experience includes an exclusive cocktail hour and caviar service, complimentary drinks and food-focused workshops. Among them will be a panel discussion I’ve been invited to take part in starting between 2 and 3 p.m. More details as we get closer.
And did I mention the aforementioned Mr. Chanchaleune is scheduled to appear?
The event alone provides ample evidence of Oklahoma food culture’s growth, but Big Bite doesn’t happen if Oklahoma foodways hadn’t expanded and spilled into our food-service industry over the past two decades.
Chanchaleune is only the latest in a succession of pioneering chefs, pitmasters, brewers, bakers and restaurateurs who’ve diligently and creatively pushed standards over the past 20 years.
Chanchaleune isn’t alone as a local culinary pioneer, nor did he garner his third Beard nomination in five years by himself. Cooking works for individual expression, but commercial kitchens require teamwork. Ma Der has that in spades, including Jeff’s wife and partner, Rachel. Hopefully this trip to Chicago ends with a medal hanging around their necks.
When the news broke Wednesday, I was relieved for Chanchaleune. He told me a few weeks ago the nomination weighed heavy on his mind. Heavier than the always reserved Chanchaleune let on to anyone. On social media, he admitted, “I can finally breathe!”
Alas, his respite from Beard anxiety is brief. Beard judges from who knows where will no doubt make Ma Der a destination over the next couple of months. When he’s not preparing for that, he’s got events like the upcoming Cowboys & Laoboys redux.
Chanchaleune and pitmaster Zach Edge team up once again to blend Lao cuisine with Texas Hill Country barbecue techniques. Last year’s collaboration drew long lines and astonishing flavors. That event is just in time for Tax Day on April 15.
The only sad news Wednesday was that Chanchaleune was the only Oklahoman named a finalist. Chef Tabb Singleton of Phat Tabb’s BBQ was certainly worthy. So was Zack Walters of Sedalia’s, but he and and his wife Silvana were inexplicably overlooked by the Beard Foundation this year.
Both are worthy destinations this spring and summer. Sedalia’s for the combination of glorious seafood and nifty outdoor dining options; Phat Tabb’s offers what I believe to be the state’s finest barbecue in the lakeside community of Idabel – perfect for weekend getaways.
That Tabb earned a semifinal nod is a tribute to his hard work and attention to detail. He also happens to be one of the most gracious hosts you’ll ever meet. All that belies an ambitious chef with exacting standards. His goals are lofty, but he’s not greedy. When he hits the targets he’s set for himself, he won’t get there without dragging Oklahoma standards with him.
Not all local dining news was good this week. Chef Kevin Lee’s run on Guy Fieri’s fifth season of Tournament of Champions came to an end last Sunday. Lee went up against chef Antonia Lofaso, a seasoned culinary competition veteran from the early years of Top Chef and fell just short. Don’t dare worry about Kevin. This will not be his final foray on Food Network and the food programming world.
Hacienda Tacos closed its Midtown location on Thursday but continues to operate out of its original location in Northpark Mall. Apparently, some unconfirmed gossip about the original Northpark Mall store closing was posted as news on social media and spread that day. Stuff like that is why I’ve curtailed my social media time significantly in the past few years, and it’s a reminder that there is no need to parse through social media gossip when you’ve got the Food Dood Feed arriving in your inbox.
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