Is LoFi Pizza Low-Key the Best Pizza in Oklahoma?
Balance and beauty rank these pies sky-high
Tulsa’s pizza game hasn’t been the same since fire took beloved pizzerias Lowood and Hodges Bend along with numerous homes in a nearby apartment complex. But out of chaos, order was restored and growth blossomed thanks to chef Trevor Tack, who makes a blazing return to the Tulsa culinary scene with LoFi Pizza & Wine Listening Bar. Merging pizza, drinks, and music, LoFi takes a recipe made famous by Hideaway and Andolini’s to the next level. LoFi can’t be lumped in with volume-churning pie factories like those. It would be a gross injustice. LoFi offers considerably more than any other pizza restaurant in Tulsa, maybe the state.
Atmosphere
Blending concrete floors, cream-colored walls, and wood trim, LoFi exudes modern industrial charm. The bar and open kitchen in the back offers its guests a glimpse of the chefs while lighting natural light from the front window invites them to bask in their own space. Seating includes smaller tables and communal options for up to eight, fostering a social vibe. The energy escalates when the restaurant is busy, with music and a DJ station infusing it with energy. However, noise levels can leak over the capacity for some during peak times. If you’re up for it, the energy during peak hours makes for a vibrant, dynamic experience.
Service
Led by the man with a million-dollar smile, chef Tack, the service was impeccable. Not only does chef Tack oversee the culinary magic in the kitchen, taking the time to engage with each table is a signature. Our primary servers for the evening, Scott and John, provided excellent attention to our table, and we even had the opportunity to chat with owner Noah Bush.
Dining Part I: Appetizers
Ultimately, taste reigns supreme. So, how does LoFi fare flavor-wise, particularly compared to longstanding pizza staples like Hideaway and Andolini’s? LoFi not only elevates the concept of a pizza place but also shatters the stereotypes associated with it. LoFi redefines what's possible in the realm of pizza. Starting with an amazing array of starters.
Portuguese Sardines with cultured butter, black currant mustard, pickled onion, and crostini
Chef Tack's brilliance shines through in the delicate, light flavor profile of the sardines, which are not overly salty or overly fishy. The combination of mustard and cultured butter creates a perfect complement to the sardines.
Stracciatella with warm bread, sunflower seeds, sour cherry gremolata, and garlic oil
This dish starts with creamy mozzarella curd, delivering a delightful balance of sweet and sour from cherry accents, complemented by subtle notes of sunflower and warm bread. The flavor profile is a harmonious blend of sweet, nutty, and creamy, elevated by the contrasting texture of sunflower seeds.
Slow-braised white beans with pecorino and garlic confit toast
The white beans offer a unique flavor profile, simultaneously delicate and herbaceous. The crostini provides a satisfying crunch and enhances the meaty flavor of the beans, resulting in a surprisingly light and well-balanced dish.
Charred broccolini with ajo blanco and caper raisin vinaigrette
This dish boasts a more distinct flavor profile, with tangy acidic notes from the vinaigrette taking the forefront. At the back end, there's a beautiful nutty flavor reminiscent of peanuts or sesame, complementing the perfectly charred broccolini.
Roasted carrots, beets, and fennel served with herbs, citrus vinaigrette, olives, and lemon dill ricotta
This dish offers a light and refreshing experience with a perfectly balanced flavor profile. The earthy tones of the beets and carrots harmonize beautifully with the creamy, delicate ricotta. Each bite concludes with delightful hints of herbs and dill.
Boquerones with piquillo pepper and cilantro, aptly named "leche de tigre"
This stunning dish boasts a beautifully balanced, light, and vibrant flavor profile. The anchovies are impeccably prepared, not overly salty, and paired flawlessly with the piquillo pepper sauce. Each bite presents a symphony of salty, tangy, sweet, and acidic flavors.
LoFi charcuterie board, house meats, spuma de mortadella, fennel & herb salad, cornichons, grain mustard, bread
Chef Tack cures his own meats, a remarkable feat requiring immense time, energy, and precision. His charcuterie board evolves constantly, but standout offerings like bresaola, capicola, and Soppressata have consistently showcased a stunning balance of salty and funky flavors. It’s a true testament to his dedication and craftsmanship.
Dining Part II: The Pies
Traditional margherita featuring house-pulled mozzarella, red sauce, basil, and olive oil
This pizza is a masterpiece of balance. Each bite begins with the vibrant freshness of tomatoes, transitions smoothly to the delicate mozzarella, and concludes with the herbal notes of basil. The sourdough crust adds a subtle tang, enhancing the overall vibrancy and refreshing quality of the pizza. Eating it evokes memories of spring, with the unmistakable taste of fresh tomatoes.
Sweet Fennel Sausage, featuring house-made pork sausage from Prairie Creek Pork, red sauce, red onion, ricotta dollops, and basil
This pizza is simply divine. Each bite begins with the luscious red sauce, followed by the creamy richness of the cheese. The magic unfolds when you taste the sausage—each bite releases a tangy burst of pure heaven. The sausage is remarkably fresh and delicately flavored, with a subtle afternote of fennel that beautifully accents each bite. Chef Tack once again showcases his brilliance in balance, ensuring that the fennel enhances rather than overwhelms the pizza.
McMinnville hot pie, featuring spicy red sauce, pepperoni, cherry peppers, hot honey, basil, and mozzarella
This pizza is a beautifully complex creation that offers a symphony of flavors. Sweet, salty, savory, and hot elements come together in perfect harmony, creating a sensory delight with each bite. The heat from the sauce tantalizes the lips and tongue without overpowering, allowing you to savor every heavenly bite.
LDH
This pizza is an ode translated through food. Though this story is not mine to share, the pizza itself is crafted with care and features castelvetrano olives, garlic confit, basil, lemon zest, and house-pulled mozzarella. This pizza is a haze of flavors. Beginning with the creamy mozzarella, the pizza unfolds to reveal sweet garlic balanced by tangy olives, with beautiful end notes of lemon. This elegant white pizza boasts a uniquely delicate flavor profile, reflecting the heart and soul put into its creation.
Banana panna cotta
This deserted is created by the one and only pastry chef Koda Potter. This delightful dish, previously featured at the Philbrook Grand Wine Tasting, stood out as my top bite of that event, and it certainly did not disappoint here. It embodies perfection. With its exquisite texture, tantalizing taste, and irresistible temptation, it leaves nothing to be desired. Beginning with the luscious notes of banana, it transitions seamlessly to creamy middle notes of caramel and chocolate, beautifully balanced by a tangy passion fruit gel. The addition of a chocolate crumb provides a delightful crunchy dimension to the dish. Without a doubt, this is the finest dessert I have ever had at any pizza place.
Summary
LoFi elevates and redefines the concept of a pizza restaurant. Each dish, each pizza, showcases Chef Tack's talent and brilliance in achieving a harmonious balance of textures, tastes, and flavors. The menu he has crafted is vibrant, light, and refreshing. For those familiar with Chef Tack's culinary prowess, the offerings at LoFi are distinctly and uniquely his own. However, one minor critique is that the menu and food quality far exceed the atmosphere. This is not to say that the atmosphere is lacking, as it perfectly aligns with the vision of LoFi.
One thing is certain—LoFi redefines the dining experience for pizza fans in Tulsa and caters not only to pizza-lovers but to food enthusiasts with its diverse offerings that cannot be found at other pizza establishments. I urge everyone to give LoFi a try and break free from our preconceived notions of what a pizza place should be. Allow chef Tack to expand your culinary horizons and show you what it truly can be.
Final Score: 53/60: Excellent
Jared’s Scale
56-60: Pièce de Résistance.
51-55: Excellent
41-50: Above Average
20-40: Average
19 or lower: Below Average
Pizza Accord
Editor’s Note: Summer of 2023, I am in Tulsa scouting a location for an event that never came to fruition. It was a gorgeous day hanging with some interesting people, but it was clear this event was a pipe dream. Then I get a text from Rob Crissinger: “I think I might’ve just had the best pizza in Oklahoma!!” He was talking about LoFi pizza. When I was finally able to get him in the same room with Jared Gleaton, I couldn’t wait to hear them compare notes on the pizza prospects in the 918. When it happened, we were lucky enough to be recording another episode of The Food Dood & Friends. Here’s how it went down.