New, improved Nonesuch bound and determined to raise local standards
We welcome Jared Gleaton Eats to the Food Dood Feed ...
Editor’s Note: In an effort to spread the good word about what’s going on in Oklahoma dining and culinary arts to a broader audience, I’ve invited Jared Gleaton, a school psychologist, food critic, and author of the new book "A Feast for the Senses: The Psychological Art of Eating Well" to contribute. He is keeper of Jared Gleaton Eats, which provides his insights mostly through photos and video. Because neither of those platforms are handy for text and Jared claims to need some editing, you’ll find his work appearing in its own section here at The Feed This was Jared’s second visit to Nonesuch, first under the new ownership. Nonesuch is currently dark as chef Brian Baxter of The Catbird Seat in Nashville takes temporary residence.
Nonesuch, led by Chef Garrett Hare, was Oklahoma City’s first dedicated tasting menu restaurant, leading the way for Grey Sweater and others that have followed. The restaurant opened in 2017 and quickly gained attention when it was named Bon Appetit Magazine’s Best New Restaurant in America. In March 2024, I dined at Nonesuch and rated it 88/100, placing it in the excellent range.
At the time, chef Garrett Hare offered a seasonal 10-course tasting menu that showcases Oklahoma's essence through locally sourced produce and proteins. Hare and his team aim to elevate Oklahoma's culinary identity through careful craftsmanship.
I hadn’t planned on returning soon, but then the ownership changed.
Not only did it change, it transcended. If that sounds effusive, consider the new owner is the reigning Best Restaurateur in America, according to the James Beard Foundation Awards, New owner chef Kelly Whitaker and his wife and business partner Erika took home the award in June on behalf of their Id Est. Hospitality. The independently owned Colorado restaurant group has among its holdings Michelin-starred The Wolf’s Tailor and Bruto in Denver. Nonesuch hosted a Bruto pop-up just last month.
With that in mind, I approached my latest trip to Nonesuch with the same high expectations as any other restaurant carrying a Michelin star.
Since the previous score already showed excellence, there wasn’t much room for improvement. Chef Hare still oversees the kitchen and Chad Luman remains the general manager. A 10-course tasting menu was still the format. The dining experience that followed was joyful, delicious, and inspiring. It forecasts a bright future not only for Oklahoma City but all of Oklahoma dining culture.
Alas, change has come to Nonesuch since my return. The restaurant is currently home to The Catbird Seat of Nashville. Chef Brian Baxter has commandeered the kitchen for the next month in preparation for the launch of his first cookbook.
Nonesuch will return to service on Nov. 2, but when it does who knows what changes might be at hand. Nevertheless, my dining experience and the improvements I experienced serve as notice that the reigning Best Restaurateurs in America come with lofty and exacting standards and practices.
Atmosphere
The last place improvement was expected was the atmosphere, especially when that was already its pièce de résistance. Cool grays and dark accents contrast blond wood and leather furnishings cast in soft yellow light. Dried flowers and herbs hang before open, backless shelves stacked with jars of pickled delights, announcing the dedication to preservation and zero-waste upheld in the open kitchen on the other side.
An open kitchen that transforms the u-shaped dining counter into a staggered chef's table. This concept, rooted in the tradition of chefs entertaining family and friends in the kitchen, aligns with the Norwegian theme of hygge (pronounced hyoo-guh) — a sense of everyday togetherness. The hygge runs deep at Nonesuch, each patron is given a front-row seat to live culinary artistry that doubles as a communal dining experience.
But that’s not all. Nonesuch is also now home to The Den. Previously a private dining room, it now plays host to a tasting menu and beverage-pairing concept of its own. With a lower price-point, The Den offers diners the chance to help chef Hare workshop dishes bound for the Nonesuch tasting menu.
Service
Nonesuch’s service is distinctive in that it is chef-centric. Diners will meet several chefs throughout the night, each relaying inspiration, concept, and execution.
Our evening began with a warm welcome from our host, Joe, who led us to our countertop. There, we ran into Luman and barista Kiki from our previous visit. Once again, Kiki provided outstanding beverage service paired with engaging conversations about food and the inspirations behind the wine and non-alcoholic pairings. Kiki was engaging, knowledgeable, and in tune with the rhythm and flow of the restaurant.
Chef Hare’s team, including John, Devon, Jeff, and pastry chef Maddie, helped nudge the dining experience up the culinary ladder. Their attention thoughtful explanations took me back to the rarified air of Smyth, Goosefoot, and Galit.
Dining
Tasting menus present the kitchen with a high-wire act. Ensuring the flavors packed into each bite meets the flair of its appearance is the real challenge. The more courses there are, the harder it becomes to sustain excellence. When the kitchen can craft an experience that tows this line with aplomb and distinction, the result is culinary art. When they don’t, it can get messy in spots.
At Nonesuch, presentations were generally exemplary and often stunning.
Course 1: "Snacks"
Croustade, tartlet, and eggplant march onto the scene, and eggplant is first. Wrapped in a leaf, It’s crisp and tangy. Contrasting textures and flavors that include fennel, and a hint of green apple set the tone. Next is catfish mousse in a tartlet that is the first salvo toward transcendence. Creamy, rich mousse retreats into the crevices of the tartlet shell with each crunch, creating a mouthful of Oklahoma sweetness with a savory soul. Finally, a tartlet topped with custard and caviar that left a vapor trail of floral notes.
Course 2: "Cucumber"
After three bold bites, our palates needed refreshment. What better refreshment for the palate than crisp cucumber, heirloom tomato and tangy house-made buttermilk engaged in a dance on the palate?
Course 3: "Chicken"
Squash and kimchi partner to make this chicken course sing. Each bite begins with the crunch of squash before the succulence of the chicken arrives. Kimchi brings fire without brimstones but loads of tang to deliver a knockout blow to the palate. The kind of knockout that compels you to rise and be hit with again and again.
Course 4: "Okra"
Next stop, summer, featuring sungold tomatoes, okra, edible flowers, and broth. The season’s best flavors lead but are counterbalanced by an herbaceous oil. Okra brings the expected texture, but the besotted sighs it evoked were a surprise.
Course 5: "Chawanmushi"
A sublime dish of corn and pork, bound by velveteen custard, casts a spell drawn from a cauldron of fresh corn and sexy pork demi-glace. Earthy notes from the corn custard offer a balancing hand to the sweet corn and rich pork.
Course 6: "Catfish"
Few proteins are more Oklahoma than catfish, but it’s doubtful Oklahoma has ever seen it elevated to this degree. Beurre blanc and smoky salmon row combine with perfectly cooked catfish for a result I can only describe as remarkable.
Course 7: "Bison"
Bison pairs with chile, roasted onion and pepper cream, fermented blueberries, and milk bread to create a robust result. The bison was brilliantly executed, but the onion-pepper sauce delivered just enough smoke and fire to keep the tastebuds tantalized long enough for soft, sweet milk bread, brushed with beef fat to fan the flames, and create a culinary moment both decadent and refined.
Course 8: "Tea and Snacks"
Local cinnamon tea is paired with a canelé, which boasts a perfectly crunchy exterior and a delicate, eggy interior for harmonious balance that delights the senses.
Course 9: "Peach"
A master class in contrast, this dessert combines gremolata, prosecco, herbs, and custard. The cold, icy gremolata melts on the palate, releasing floral notes before the prosecco bubbles dance everything across the palate with hints of peach. Custard gives the whole thing a velvet canvas that graciously conducts this micro-symphony of temperature, texture, and tastiness.
Course 10: "Miso Tart”
The contrast train continues right down to the final dessert of cantaloupe and Chantilly. First comes a burst of vanilla from a luxurious custard followed by the natural sweetness and welcomed texture of fresh cantaloupe. The salty, fermented end notes of miso provide a surprising yet harmonious finish, elevating this dessert to a toe-curling finale that feels right at home in a Michelin-starred setting.
With dining experiences at Alinea, Oriole, Ever, and Smyth just over a month ago, I can confidently say that this trio of desserts made for a cohesive dessert service on par or better than those esteemed restaurants.
Summary
Nonesuch has curated a menu and experience where every dish, bite, and concept fall within my “excellent” to “pièce de résistance” range — an impressive feat. It also improved its score by six points in just a matter of months.
This only proves the sky-high expectations Nonesuch brings to Oklahoma has merit. This place has not only the potential but the aspiration to be a Michelin-level restaurant. It’s an exciting time for Oklahoma’s culinary scene and I hope Kelly Whitaker and Garrett Hare continue to elevate their craft, course by course, experience by experience.
In the past year, I've experienced more than 50 tasting menus, ranging from 5 to 15 courses, including those from nine Michelin-starred restaurants. Only two of those menus achieved a perfect 60/60 food score, and both were 5-course meals.
While Nonesuch’s tasting menu didn’t reach perfection, what stands out is the remarkable improvement in execution and cohesion from March to now. A five-point increase on this critique scale is substantial, and any movement beyond that is even more significant.
The score is based on my subjective opinion, and most emphasis is weighted on the food.
Atmosphere: 20/20; Elegant, soothing, great view, top tier atmosphere akin to Michelin Starred Establishments
Service: 20/20; Michelin quality chef's table experience offered to all at the counter.
Food: 54/60; Several very good bites; several excellent bites; two borderline transcendent bites.
Overall: 94/100; Excellent
95-100: pièce de résistance.
80-94: Excellent
65-79: Above Average
35-64: Average
20-34: Below Average
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