Nonesuch the Richer?

Id Est brings Michelin, Beard bonafides to the 405 diningscape for real

Change is a constant challenge because evolution is real.

When Nonesuch was named Best New Restaurant in America by Bon Appétit in 2018, it shone a light on Oklahoma City’s culinary landscape that felt written in permanent marker. Long gone is founder Todd Woodruff and chef Colin Stringer has found a home at Sedalia’s. Last year, Woodruff sold Nonesuch to the James Beard Foundation’s Restaurateurs of the Year. Nonesuch’s next chapter will be written under the leadership of chef Kelly Whitaker and his wife/business partner Erika, who own id Est. Hospitality.

An Oklahoma native, Whitaker won four Michelin stars, two of them green, at Denver’s, Bruto and The Wolf’s Tailor. Last year, his group, Id Est., received the James Beard Foundation’s most prestigious award Now, Kelly returns to Oklahoma amid an exciting culinary renaissance, partnering with Nonesuch staples general manager Chad Luman and chef Garrett Hare. Together, they aim to push Nonesuch to even greater heights.

The question remains: Will Kelly, Chad, Garrett, and Id Est. redefine fine dining in Oklahoma? Or perhaps a larger question looms — what does fine dining truly mean in today’s ever-changing world? Let’s eat!

Atmosphere

Nonesuch’s atmosphere is as striking as ever. Cool grays and dark accents contrast with blond wood and leather furnishings, all bathed in a soft yellow lighting. Dried flowers and jars of pickled delights adorn open shelves, reflecting the restaurant’s zero-waste ethos. The open kitchen transforms the U-shaped dining counter into an intimate chef’s table, inspired by hosting traditions. Adding to the energy, the music playing in the background is notably louder, making the environment feel more alive. The minimalist design blends modernity with warm wood tones, creating an inviting and dynamic space.

Service

Nonesuch’s service maintains its unique chef-centric approach, with multiple chefs engaging diners to share the inspiration and execution behind each dish. Our evening began with a warm welcome from Kiki, who escorted us to our countertop in Nonesuch’s little brother, The Den. Luman delivered exceptional service, as did the waitstaff. Both chefs Hare and Whitaker were actively involved, providing top-tier hospitality and connecting with guests. Speaking with chef Whitaker was a highlight—his passion for his craft and love for Oklahoma shone through, showcasing his excitement for the state’s growing culinary scene.

Food

At the time of this review, Nonesuch’s refresh is approximately two- weeks old, and this should be taken into consideration. The tasting menu has shifted to an à la carte format, with a five-course prix fixe option available..

Salad featuring turnip, apple, and lovage.

Dinner started square in the middle of Nonesuch’s fermentation program in the form of a warm charred turnip dish. Earthy notes open the proceedings followed by a dash of bitter that’s ultimately balanced by a lovage purée in the middle and the tangy-sweet finish of fermented apple. Balance is harmony. Full stop.

Soup featuring miso, mushroom, tofu, corn and vin-blanc.

Mushroom and miso burst forward at the front before the slightly sweet, salty, and creamy corn vin blanc balances affairs. The soup’s viscosity coats the palate in umami for a complex and intensely flavorful experience.

Grill featuring a grilled oyster, turnip top, and yuzu

The oyster features initial notes of herb and sweet yuzu awakening the palate, giving way to the briny richness of the oyster itself, and culminating in delicate end notes of the sea.

Fish featuring Oklahoma catfish with shrimp and whey

The Oklahoma catfish remains a menu staple, poached in butter to achieve a perfectly fork-tender texture. The shrimp mousse introduces a dynamic oceanic flavor that compliments the freshwater fish beautifully. Sturgeon caviar adds a luxurious touch, with its delicate pearls providing bursts of saltiness and texture that balance the slightly sweet, buttery notes of the fish.

Mushroom with date-gorgonzola (Not currently on the Menu)

A visual marvel, the dish combines subtle sweet and tangy notes from the date and gorgonzola, complemented by sour undertones from the mushroom throughout the bite. While the mushroom’s texture is exceptional, the flavors of the individual components are difficult to distinguish, with the mushroom’s identity particularly overpowered by the sauces.

Pork featuring fermented pepper jus

This pork dish is a masterful showcase of flavor, capturing the essence of ham, bacon, pork chop, and loin in one small strip. Every bite highlights a different cut, offering a symphony of pork flavors in a compact, indulgent form. The fermented pepper jus perfectly complements the meat, adding a sweet and salty balance that elevates the dish. While some bites were slightly chewy, the overall experience beautifully honors the versatility and richness of pork.

CFS Chicken Fried steak with bonito gravy, and salmon roe.

This bold dish reimagines an Oklahoma classic with creativity. The massive chicken-fried steak (CFS) features the expected with the unexpected. Tender beef lies beneath bonito gravy and salmon roe, creating a unique flavor puzzle. It begins with rich beef notes, shifts to salty-sweet fishy tones, and finishes with briny bursts. While visually reminiscent of classic CFS, the flavor leans toward an elevated surf-and-turf concept. However, it lacked the iconic crispy crust. Also, there is a dissonance between the fish and beef flavors competing rather than working in harmony. Still, it’s a daring, innovative take on a beloved staple.

“Sides” featuring fermented daikon, pecan and plum; Vegetables featuring squash-rose-yogurt, rice featuring a cacio e pepe cream, and Sonara Milk Bread with Butter.

The fermented daikon, pecan, and plum are delightful, serving as a refreshing de facto palate cleanser for the evening. The squash-rose-yogurt combination is borderline transcendent, elevated by a medley of East Indian spices that achieve a flawless balance. The rice with cacio e pepe cream offers a beautiful and innovative twist on an Italian classic, blending familiarity with creative flair. Finally, the Sonora milk bread is divine, featuring a pillowy interior and a nuanced, exquisite flavor profile.

Dessert buttermilk, pumpkin, chai tea

Up until this point, the dishes had been impressive but hadn’t quite recaptured the magic of my previous Nonesuch experience—until this one. This creation transcends craft entering the realm of art, or what I rate Pièce de Résistance. Each bite is a symphony: tangy, slightly sweet buttermilk ice cream leads the way, followed by a rich pumpkin tres leches-inspired purée, and finishes with warming chai tea notes. Fermented berries add a vibrant acidity, heightening the dish's complexity. The flavor profile is extraordinary, embodying pure brilliance.

Overall

This refresh of Nonesuch marks the start of a bold new chapter in its evolution. Staying true to its roots, the restaurant drops its tasting menu approach but remains committed to crafting a menu entirely from Oklahoma ingredients. Under Kelly Whitaker’s vision, Nonesuch reimagines classic Oklahoma dishes, elevating them into the realm of redefined fine dining.

This daring approach aims to resonate with a new generation of Oklahoma diners. The introduction of an à la carte menu alongside the prix fixe option expands its appeal while honoring its local identity. Dishes like chicken-fried steak showcase this balance of tradition and innovation. Throughout the evening, I sensed a faint echo of John Shields’ creativity, a testament to Nonesuch's evolving artistry. Kelly’s passion and experience, paired with Garrett Hare’s exceptional talent, signal an exciting new era for fine dining in Oklahoma.

Until next time, friends — let’s eat!

Scoring

Atmosphere: 20/20; Pièce de résistance modern atmosphere at the highest level in OKC.

Service: 20/20; Upper echelon, chef-centric service making you feel like part of an experience.

Food: 49/60; The start of something new and innovative with incredible potential

Overall: 89/100; The beginning of what could eventually be “Pièce de résistance” and a top 3 in Oklahoma.