Symmetry shaping up to be something special

The 405 diningscape adds a 'chef-driven steakhouse' to its roster Monday

Symmetry determines the quality and value of a diamond, but a couple of veteran restaurant operators are intent on making it the new standard for steakhouses, starting Monday.

“We’re a chef-driven steakhouse,” Symmetry co-owner Jason Pool told me Friday, just three days before the restaurant’s grand opening. “We’re going to specialize in steak, but we’ve got a talented chef, and we want to let him guide the direction of our menu.”

Longtime Naifeh’s Fine Jewelry space in Casady Square, but it won’t be the first restaurant to try replacing Naifeh’s. After Valerie Naifeh moved her store to Nichols Hills Plaza, the corner space on the west side of Casady Square became The Vault, but it only lasted six months.

That left a turn-key opportunity for the right operators. Those operators happened to be two Hal Smith Restaurants alums looking for an opportunity. Jason Pool spent 17 years at Mahogany north while Osborn started with Mahogany 24 years ago in Omaha before moving to Oklahoma City to open the ostentatious downtown location.

“The space spoke so us,” Osborn recalled. “I was driving by the space and saw it had closed. So, I pulled over and called Jason and our buddy in real estate to let us in. When we walked in, I turned to Jason and said, ‘We’re doing this, aren’t we?’”

Osborn and Pool left HSM, deciding to branch out on their own last year. They’ve created Empire Hospitality Group together.

“We have several concepts in mind,” Osborn said. “But for our first restaurant, we decided to do what we know.”

What Osborn and Pool know is steaks. With more than four decades of experience at Mahogany, doing a high-end chophouse was the obvious place to start, but it’s far from where they plan to finish.

“We want to do 20 restaurants in the next 20 years,” Pool said. “We’ve got all kinds of concepts in mind, like a real New York-style deli, but to get started, it just made sense to stick to what we knew and were passionate about.”

Pool and Osborn sat down with me on Friday to taste through items from chef Glenn Scott. He came to Symmetry with Pool, whom he worked for at Mahogany. Before that, Scott manned the stove at Osteria for Jonathon Stranger.

“My background covers a lot of different cuisines,” he said. “Spanish, Italian, French, Indian, Korean – I’ve done them all.”

For our tasting, chef Scott started us with oysters. Dressed in a variety of mignonettes, including an Argentine version with chimichurri, a Spanish style with Romesco, and Apple, the oysters arrived in a tangle of seaweed on a triangular platter. Spotless.

Before the proteins arrived, we dove into The Wedge salad. It’s highlighted by butter lettuce, house-made Ranch dressing, shaved egg, Pancetta, blue cheese crumbles, and a balsamic glaze. Razor-sharp.

We tasted through proteins, starting with a bone-in filet. The 14-ounce steak arrived with a thick, crispy crust, but the center was still mid-rare and the Black Truffle Butter on top offered a welcome contrast. Nom, nom, nom! Other topping options include Lobster Oscar, Moroccan Chermoula, Au Poivre, Smoked Bone Marrow, and Gorgonzola Butter.

The pork chop was pristine, served with chimichurri, sauteed onions, and Fresno chiles. Nearly fork tender, this chop was cooked to perfection and the chimichurri on point. Maybe the biggest surprise was the chicken.

“I don’t do chicken,” Scott said. “I looked at several different kinds of fowl like game hens and a couple others. I said all along if I was gonna do chicken it was going to have to be a really good one. Then I found one.”

Though the dish reads simply as Chicken Breast, the dish is far more. For starters, the bone-in breast includes the wing and all the crispy skin. Beneath it, two sauces: Saffron Cream and Calabrian Romesco. It also comes with blistered padron peppers. While they look like shishitos, these peppers have a nice little zing. Bravo!

Scott’s remaining entrees include a Truffle Beurre Blanc Salmon, Sea Bass Provencal, Black Truffle Scallop Risotto, a duck breast and a Mediterranean-style rack of lamb.

Sides include Wild Mushroom Risotto, Potatoes Au Gratin, and garlic mashed potatoes. Desserts include a flourless chocolate torte, a four-layer cheesecake and rotating dessert feature.

The bar takes up a good portion of the square-footage at Symmetry. Bar manager Austin Greer’s program is rooted in the classics but unafraid to push boundaries. Was able to try the uber-refreshing Currant Affairs. It blends Earl Grey-infused gin, Montenegro, Black Currant jam, honey and ginger beer.  He’ll also be dispensing diamond-shaped ice cubes.

To check out the full menu and make reservations, click here.

The restaurant opens Monday. Pool said the bar will open at 4 with dinner service beginning at 5 p.m. Among the things Symmetry inherited from The Vault was a stage and fully integrated sound system. Pool said they plan to offer live music three nights a week. The bar and live music schedule will affect the closing time at Symmetry, but Pool said the restaurant will likely close around 10 on weekdays and midnight on weekends. The restaurant is closed Sundays.