The sun sets on another state fair
Blue ribbons still flow but now bullets fly
Hustling through the Creative Arts Building on Saturday, I couldn’t help slowing down to take in the tasty sights. Glass cases jammed with cakes, pies, breads and confections made a labyrinthine path to the Made in Oklahoma Coalition’s annual Oklahoma Pride competition.
Folks from all around the state submitted recipes and the baked goods to back them for a chance to see their work on display, wrapped in ribbons red, white, purple and blue. It was a reminder of the fair’s historic gravity. At the infancy of statehood, home telephones played second fiddle to telegraph offices. If folks wanted to commune or compete, they had to congregate. County fairs pointed to state fairs, which were among the largest congregations of each year.
Oklahoma’s state fairgrounds aren’t as old as other around the country, but it’s got plenty of history. A hundred years ago, it was whipped into shape
to host the largest barbecue in the history of the world. It used to have a monorail and fun for the whole family. The contests of kitchen derring-do conveyed an annual state of the local foodways. Apple pie became iconic by way of state fairs.
The tradition continues into today’s fair, which still draws thousands of people; however, not the same percentage of Oklahoma’s populace. That’s probably a good thing. It would take fairgrounds the size of the Drummond Ranch to accommodate the same percentage of Oklahomans in one place today.
The role of food at the modern fair has changed, too. Used to be more about local goods, but now fairs bring with them vendors who travel the nation selling their deep-fried offerings. Plenty of Oklahomans do operate at the state fair, a good number travel the fair circuit, too.
For fairs to survive, turkey legs and funnel cakes had to become the draw. That doesn’t mean the old-timey cooking contests had to go. Folks still compete for nylon on the backs of their baked goods. This year’s fair had cooking competitions and demonstrations every day, from peanuts to salad and ice cream and cookies. Saturday afternoon’s competition required contestants to use products from Oklahoma, which for the dessert segment meant a whole lot of butter and cream from Braum’s and flour from Shawnee Mills.
After a Peanut Butter and Jelly Cake made dazzling by its use of Not Your Average Joe Raspberry Jalepeno Jelly, won the purple Best in Show Ribbon, I took one last walk through the winners cases. Just before I left, I passed a section dedicated to my dearly departed friend and mentor Melba Lovelace. In its wisdom, the fair has named the cake contest after her. No human ever ate more cake, pie and ice cream without ever slipping into morbid obesity than Melba. Wearing a bittersweet smile, I left the Creative Arts Building and headed for the exit.
On the way out, I passed two local law enforcement officers leaned against what I can only describe as a Tiny Tank. I couldn’t help laughing. Better known as a tactical vehicle, this small armored and armed vehicle was the last thing I passed as I exited. A grim reminder that weapon-worship is stitched into the local culture. Always has been, but now it comes in vehicles that turn our police into Robocops.
About a half hour later, I made it home and flipped on a football game. A red angry chryon flashed across the bottom of the screen. “BREAKING NEWS,” it read, “Police are responding to a shooting at the Oklahoma State Fair.”
Couldn’t help laughing because they don’t give ribbons for crying over the fair or the breakdown of civilization. The state fair is nothing more than a reflection of where we are year to year. Wish the news were better, at least the cinnamon rolls still draw a long line.
The fair is over for another year, but there is still plenty to do in the 405 diningscape the days ahead.
Indian Taco Sale at Western Heights High School, Oct. 9: Celebrate Indigenous Peoples Days with an Indian Taco plus free traditional dance performances. The sale is 4 to 8 p.m. with danceing 6 to 6:45 p.m.
October Wine dinner at Sparrow Modern Italian, Oct. 10: Enjoy a four-course dinner with wines of G.D. Pajra. Cost is $70. For reservations, call 405-815-3463.
Greek Festival of Oklahoma City, St. George Greek Orthodox Christian Church: Oct 13-15; 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. and 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Autumn Abundance Farm-to-Table Dinner, Tanglefoot Farm: Oct. 21; 3:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. Chef Luke Fry will cook at Tanglefoot Farm in Blanchard. Dinner will include live music. Cost is $75 per person and includes a tour of the farm, drinks, coffee by the fire and a four-course menu of Okie Sunrise Spread, Hen in the Greens, Prairie Homestead Pie, and October Apple Fritters. Click here for tickets and details.
St. Elijah Food Fair, St. Elijah Antiochian Church: Nov 10-11 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday; 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday.