The Tavern in Tulsa lives up to billing
Refined pub fare elevated for the fall
The Tavern has been a staple in downtown Tulsa for over a decade. It’s long been celebrated for having one of the best, if not the best burger in Oklahoma. Part of the McNellie’s group, I’ve reviewed several of their restaurants, including Bull in the Alley, City Hall Steakhouse, and Mr. Kim’s, the latter being a favorite. On the recommendation of Adam Green and accompanied by Rick Shaw, I was eager to see what chef Austin Plumlee’s new fall menu had to offer.
Bacon Popcorn
This elevated popcorn features a wonderful salty sweet caramel-esque crust intermixed with delightful tiny bits of bacon. The sweet/salty combination is delightful and a great replacement for traditional pub snack mix.
Tikka Masala Hummus
The hummus dish features curried chicken, cilantro lime yogurt, chili crunch, and grilled pita bread, offering a unique and delicious twist. The initial flavor notes include warm spices like cumin, cardamom, coriander, and cinnamon, which blend seamlessly into the nutty chickpea middle. End notes of chili, cooling yogurt, and spiced chicken complete each bite. This exotic take on hummus highlights Chef Plumlee’s expert balance of spices, ensuring all components work harmoniously to elevate the dish. It's a well-executed and flavorful offering.
Roasted Beets
Beets are coated in a blackberry vinaigrette, paired with horseradish labneh, and topped with pepita dukkah for a delightful contrast in flavors and textures. The sweet, earthy beets are complemented by creamy, tangy notes from the labneh, while the blackberry vinaigrette adds a sweet and slightly salty kick. The pepita dukkah brings a nutty crunch, elevating the dish with a satisfying balance of flavors. This is another excellent offering, showcasing both creativity and harmony in its ingredients.
Tavern Burger
The vaunted Tavern Burger features a challah bun, Stilton cheese, mushroom cognac cream, and shoestring fries. Cooked to a perfect medium-rare, each bite begins with the bold, funky notes of Stilton, giving way to rich beef and earthy mushroom flavors, complemented by the soft, slightly sweet challah. The burger is succulent and hearty, though the fries were a touch too salty. One criticism: the Stilton occasionally overpowered the beef, however overall, this is a beautiful burger that lives up to its reputation.
Roasted Chicken
The chicken, sourced from Prairie Creek Farms, is cooked to perfection and served atop a rich duck fat gravy, accompanied by gnocchi, parmesan, and a drizzle of charred onion truffle oil. The crisp chicken skin and smoky onion notes evoke comforting flavors, reminiscent of Thanksgiving. The gnocchi adds a dumpling-like texture, similar to chicken pot pie. However, the gnocchi was slightly overcooked and tough. Despite this, the dish is an embodiment of fall, with warm, hearty flavors shining through.
Seared Scallops
The U10 scallops were expertly cooked and served atop butternut risotto, complemented by bacon marmalade, pepitas, and chili crunch. The flavor profile is distinctive, with sweet scallop notes transitioning into the savory, slightly sharp taste of bacon, and finishing with earthy sage. The combination of scallop, bacon, onion, and sage creates a unique experience. The creamy risotto provides balance, while the pepitas add a satisfying crunch. However, the risotto was slightly softer than ideal, lacking the desired al dente texture.
Charred Broccolini
Chef Plumlee achieved a wonderful flavor profile with this side dish. The broccolini, slightly bitter and perfectly charred, develops an almost smoky, beefy flavor that elevates the vegetable. The charred exterior adds depth, making the simple ingredient taste rich and satisfying. It’s a fantastic combination that brings out the best of the broccolini, showcasing chef Plumlee’s ability to turn a humble vegetable into something extraordinary.
Tres Leches Carrot Cake
This fall dessert, crafted by chef Audrey Long, is a decadent delight. The moist carrot cake is soaked in tres leches, topped with a tangy frosting and cream, while bits of walnut add the perfect texture to avoid a one-dimensional dish. Each bite coats the palate with notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, and the essence of fall. It’s a wonderfully balanced and delicious dessert, capturing the warmth of the season.
Final thoughts
The Tavern absolutely lives up to its reputation and more, offering pub fare elevated to the realm of fine dining refinement. Each dish was dynamic in both flavor and texture. While some elements were slightly off, the flavor combinations were incredible, with highlights from the Tres Leches Cake, Tikka Masala Hummus, Chicken, and Broccolini. The Tavern Burger delivers on its hype as well.
Final Score: 49/60
Jared’s ratings
Scores are out of 60 with a standard deviations of +/- 10 points
56-60: pièce de résistance
50-55: Excellent
40-50: Above Average
20-40: Average
11-20: Below Average
0-10: Low
Seemed like you worked really hard to distance yourself from the magic “50” number, leaving The Tavern into a deceiving “Above Average” rating. What industry experience does this “Food Critic” have?