It was a September to remember in the 405 diningscape
But Ma Der and Sedalia's launch October on a scary-good note
Once again, I’m writing last month’s dining report thinking about the first thing I’ve eaten in the new one.
On Sept. 1, I had dinner for the second time at Sabor de la Baja, and on Sept. 3 it was a return to Naylamp for Peruvian pollo rostisado weighing my mind whilst trying to choose my favorites from August. Both of those meals made it into the September Dining Report, but before we get to that can we please take a moment to discuss the meal that will, unless something extraordinary emerges, produce the No. 1 item on next month’s list.
Often have the Monday pop-ups at Ma Der Lao Kitchen produced magnificent meals; however, the most recent collaboration with Sedalia’s Oyster and Seafood set a new standard. For two consecutive years, the 405 diningscape has produced nationally acclaimed new restaurants. Ma Der made two Best New Restaurant lists in 2022, and this year Sedalia’s was named to Bon Appetit’s Best 24 New Restaurants in America.
Ma Der’s chef Jeff Chanchaleune and Sedalia’s chef Zack Walters collaborated on Monday at Ma Der to produce the dinner of the year, up to this point. A superheroic pork sando, calamari, swordfish and spot prawns were involved. I will save my favorite dish for next month, but I wanted to take the opportunity to remind the local dining public about two incredibly special newborn restaurants that have grown into something special. Something special enough to continue to knit a culinary mosaic so striking the rest of the country can’t resist it. A mosaic that includes authentic Oklahoma flavors. Not indigenous Oklahoma flavors, but organic nonetheless thanks to the roots that have taken hold here. The flavors of Laos from Ma Der, and the Pacific Coast magnificence you’ll find at Sedalia’s are as authentic to Oklahoma as a batch of onion burgers from El Reno now. It’s a matter of birthright and cultural evolution. Deal with it; it’s delicious.
Before we get into the September top 10, a reminder to take the Foodiciary Dining Club survey. By taking the survey, you’ll help guide the kinds of events we produce and curate. It also helps ensure you receive information and invitations to the kinds of events you are interested in attending. LINK.
Also, a reminder that tickets to the $2K Cookie Contest on Oct. 29 at Twisted Tree Baking Co are on sale.
Finally, the Pivot Preserves launch party is Thursday from 4 to 8 p.m. at Roughtail Brewing Company. Happy to announce that I will be there to hand a check over to Pivot on behalf of Chefs Fest and Super Cao Nguyen for $20,000! A massive thanks to all the chefs who participated in Chefs Fest 2023. Afterwards, I’ll have some announcements to make about Chefs Fest 2024. Hint: It ain’t gonna be in August anymore!!
Now, the best 10 meals I had the pleasure to eat in September.
1. Dover Sole, La Baguette Bistro
La Baguette hosted a farewell dinner for chef David Henry, who is moving to the Pacific Northwest with his lovely wife Chris. The night was a succession of the classics from Henry, who starred at The Coach House and co-founded The Hutch. Henry is a natural-born cook who was raised in the industry and first found his way around the kitchen at La Baguette before he moved over to Avondale Dr. Henry and crew pumped out French cuisine all night, but nothing topped the Dover Sole. Not only was it perfect, but they served a roomful of the delicate dish all at the same time. Farewell, chef! You’ve still got it!!
2. Foccacia & Mussels/Sedalia’s Oyster & Seafood
Last month, new broke that Sedailia’s Oyster and Seafood was named to Bon Appetit’s Best 24 New Restaurants in America list. I dropped by after a stint at the state fair to stave off the fast-food vibes with steamed mussels and the palate-pouncing focaccia with salt cod butter. Wow.
3. Mojarra Frita/Sabor de la Baja
Last month, I shared the good news about Sabor de la Baja and how along with Sedalia’s it’s made the corridor of NW 10th Street just north of the state fairgrounds the 405 diningscape’s mecca for seafood. A second trip introduced me to mojarra frita and arrachera y camarones tacos. Can’t wait to go back!
4. Pollo Rostisado/Naylamp
On Sept. 1, I made a trip to Naylamp for Pollo Rostisado and I haven’t stopped thinking about it (or the divine ceviche mixto). Dios mio!
5. Quail Knots/The Hamilton Supperette & Lounge
The Hamilton is under review right now, and so far I can tell you the Quail Knots are landing!
6. Potato Latkes/Bradford House
Chef Caleb Stangroom has a brand-new fall menu, but before the last one disappeared I was wowed by the cacio y pepe, but the short-rib harboring latkes topped with taleggio sauce was mind-altering.
7. Chicken Tikka Kabob/Mt. Everest Cuisines
If you can fight through the traffic and retail banality of the UCO corridor where this purveyor of fine Tibetan and Indian cuisine is, it’ll be worth the hassle. Chef Kevin Lee is my usual date for Mt. Everest Cuisines, but I cheated on him with Josh Valentine last month. Josh did the ordering, and the sizzling Chicken Tikka Kabob platter was so spicy it left a trail of coughing diners in its wake. Glorious.
8. Butterscotch Budino/Pizzeria Gusto
A trip to Pizzeria Gusto that about specialty pies and catching up with friends, ended with Butterscotch Budino. Memories of my dearly departed buddy chef John Bennett came flooding back. He used to call the restaurant to see if it was available to determine whether or not it would be our lunch landing. It was bittersweet not sharing with him, but it didn’t stop me from leaving a dish clean enough to refill and use again.
9. Tortilla Soup/Frida Southwest
The ongoing breakfast tour took landed us at Frida for brunch. Even though it isn’t a proper breakfast dish, the tortilla was a lovely reminder of why that dish became so popular back in the 1990s. You rarely, if ever, find it served this deliciously today.
10. Fried Chicken/The Standard
A trip to Norman brought me to The Standard, where the fried chicken did its best to put me in an Eischen’s state of mind with some crispy cheddar biscuits for my trouble. The spicy rub gave it much-appreciated zing. Noice!