It's beginning to look like I have Ma Der issues

Wowed by Lao once again in the June dining report

As I was putting together the June dining report I noticed something it had in common with all of the monthly reports I’ve put together since back in March: Ma Der Lao Kitchen.

The best thing I ate in the month of June was from Ma Der, same as last month. Once again, chef Jeff Chanchaleune dazzled the 405 diningscape with a special event, this one open to the public. This one was a collaboration with fellow Lao chef Boby Pradachith. The progressive Lao dinner was spectacular from to top to stern, highlighted by Hokkaido scallops in a coconut milk vinaigrette the two-time James Beard-Award nominee has been dialing in for several months. The six courses Jeff and Boby pumped out that night will be hard to beat all year. I encourage you to check out Boby’s background here.

The previously mentioned scallops came in a sauce that might be Chanchaleune’s magnum opus. He described it as a simple coconut milk vinaigrette, but it’s so much more.

“I feel like it could be some kind of mother sauce,” he told me after the dinner.

A mother of a sauce it is. But it doesn’t yet fit Ma Der’s turfcentric menu. Then again, it couldn’t possibly hurt a riff on papaya salad or laab.

All six dishes were among the ten best dishes I ate last month, so I I decided to give that dinner the top spot. Long may Chanchaleune continue his inspired collaborations.

I told him as much last week over lunch at Florence’s Restaurant. Chanchaleune had never eaten at Florence’s nor had he met owners Victoria and Florence Jones Kemp. Victoria dropped by to offer her congratulations to Jeff on his Beard nominations while we ate fried chicken and chicken and dumplings.

There was no sign of Ms. Florence until we were leaving. She was holding court in the front dining room. She waved me over at which point I introduced her to Jeff, explaining how anxious he was to turn his two Beard nominations into 2024 silverware like hers. Florence looked at Jeff and said, “You better work hard, I want another one!”

Here’s the June Top 10

1.     Progressive Lao Dinner, Ma Der Lao Kitchen

As detailed above, Chanchaleune and Pradachith lit the city on fire with breakfast served out of an eggshell, sable fish, grilled pork belly, mushroom-stuffed chicken wings, perfectly executed beef, and lotus-shaped dessert. Sincerely sorry you all weren’t there to enjoy it. Bravo, chefs!

2.     Harissa Shrimp Kebabs, Riserva

Visit two of three to Riserva was all about protein, which I will detail in the formal review later this month. The skewer was topped with a cucumber melon relish cool as the proverbial other side of the pillow. Both were bedded in a right-spiced shawarma salsa. We ate til we were sleepy. Good lawd!

3.     Blueberry Pie affogato, Perets Desserts and Coffeehouse

I made three trips to Perets in June. Three! None disappointed. Very much enjoyed the pineapple-upside down bar and the Sopapilla Affogato, but Blueberry Pie Affogato is king.

4.     Proscuitto-Burrata Cake, Patrono

On a birthday-driven progressive dinner that passed through Perets, the best birthday cake (ever according to the birthday girl who received it) came from our first stop at Patrono. In for the octopus and white anchovies, the burrata-stuffed proscuitto won our hearts. It arrived pristine, topped with the usual heirloom cherry tomatoes, salsa verde, balsamic, and toasted garlic but also spiked with a birthday candle. Wishes really do come true.

5.     Fried Chicken Biscuits, The Tasting Room

On the night chef Andrew Black won his James Beard Award, chef Kurt Fleischfresser hosted a watch party for him and fellow nominee Jeff Chanchaleune at the Tasting Room. Dinner was a potluck won by chef Jason Jones, who wowed a room full of chefs on a night celebrating chefs with simple open-faced biscuits topped with fried chicken and drizzled with honey. Home-field advantage is real.

6.     Double cheeseburger, The Hutch on Avondale

Chef John Conway, formerly of The Jones Assembly, recently took the stove at The Hutch where I met with some folks about an upcoming event I plan to announce soon. The double-cheeseburger came highly recommended, and with help from caramelized onions, bacon and Tillamook cheese, it delivered. (gut)Bombs away!

7.     Hamburger and fries, Hamburger King

Took a drive out to Shawnee with my old buddy Glen Cosper. Glen used to work in Shawnee, and he hadn’t been to The Hamburger King in years. I’d never been. Totally worth the wait. The burger joint dates back to 1927, and it remains in phenomenal shape with new phones from which to order old-timey burgers and fries. All-in. And don’t look past that pie case!

8.     Lamb chops, Scrambl’d

Cordell Love and Jabee Williams partnered to introduce Scrambl’d to the East Point Development last week. Was able to get a bite in before the month of June was over, ensuring I’ll be back from a rack of hanging lamb chops, fried eggs and a bowl of perfect cottage potatoes.

9.     Peshawari Chapli Kabab, Kebabish Bites

Kebabish Bites chef/owner Waseem Ahmed invited me to drop by for lunch in June, and he treated me to a feast of this Pakistani staple along with Punjabi rajma, salad and fresh pita. Chapli is served flat like a hamburger steak. This kind hails from Peshawar, Pakistan. Norman is the place to find it in the 405 diningscape.

10. Frozen Bellini, Bellini’s Ristorante & Grill

Met chef Ryan Parrott for lunch on the last day of June at Bellini’s for the first time in ages for both us. When I couldn’t find the signature Frozen Bellini on the House Cocktail menu, Ryan suggested I check under Starters. Ryan’s first kitchen job was at Tommy’s Italian Grill in Northpark Mall, a direct descendant. There it was, first on the list under Appetizer’s in Regular and Baby. Had one of each before lunch was over.

Stay hungry (and thirsty), I’ll have some newsy nibbles on Wednesday.